Getting Started in Nature Photography:

The first thing to remember:
Photography is 90% seeing and 10% Photographing.
 

a) If you are just getting started and haven't chosen a camera yet, do some research and choose a manufacturer that has a wide range of lenses and accessories (ex: Nikon or Canon). At this point you may feel that you'll never need a 500mm f4 lens, but this game is addictive! If you have a limited budget, put your money in glass instead of a camera body with all the bells & whistles. Many of my best photos ever, were taken with relatively inexpensive camera body with a good lens attached.

b) Shoot slide film, for this is the only way to truly learn exposure. By eliminating the neg to paper process your exposure will no longer be altered by the processor. Also if you have any intention of possibly being published, the publishers prefer transparencies. Always shoot the slowest film speed possible as the quality of film increases with slower speed film. I shoot 50ASA whenever possible and 100ASA for moving subjects and low light. I will also occasionally have 100ASA film pushed to 200ASA, but only if I really need another stop of light.

c) Use a sturdy tripod whenever possible ! This will allow the use of slow speed films. Gitzo makes the best (in my book), but they are a little pricey. I prefer the Gitzo 320 when shooting with lenses up to 300mm, and the Gitzo 410 for lenses over 300mm. Bogen makes a much more affordable tripod, model 3021, which is very adequate for lenses up to 300mm. Whichever tripod you choose, be certain that it allows you to adjust the angle of the leg spread so that you will be able to set up at ground level when shooting insects, wildflowers and various other subjects. Over 99% of my photos are taken with a tripod. A tripod is one of most important pieces of equipment that a professional nature photographer owns.


d) Pick up a copy of John Shaw's *The Nature Photographer's Complete Guide to Professional Field Techniques*. I already had my own techniques and equipment options before reading this book, but I'm sure it would have eliminated a lot of frustration in my earlier years, had such a book been available. Not only is John an excellent photographer, he is an excellent writer. John, in this book, goes into depth about the technical side of Nature Photography. It is a must!! Next pick up a copy of his revised edition called John Shaw's Nature Photography Field Guide. While this is called a revised edition; each book has must reading that is not covered in the other.


The following is what has worked for me and is by no means the only method. Hopefully you might be able to use some of this information.

Getting Published:

a) Shoot slide film! Publishers want transparencies. Shoot the slowest speed film that you can get away with. I shoot 50 and 100 ASA. Generally speaking, the slower the film, the better the quality. I occasionally will push my 100 to 200 if I really need the extra stop.


b) Label all slides that are worthy of publication. Mine have two labels each. One with my name, address, and phone number. The other has "image info", "code number", and copyright. Image info, for song birds, should include Common Name, Latin Name, and Location. I use a very crude, but effective, method when it comes to my "code number". All song birds start with "B" for bird and "S" for song. At the end of the code I assign a species letter. Lets say that the species letter for Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds is "M". Now lets say that it is slide # 15 of a Ruby-Throated Hummingbird. The code would be {BS-15M}. If I was labeling Common Yellowthroat #19 and my species letter for the Yellowthroat is H, then the code would be {BS-19H}. You will need to set up a database for all species so that you can keep track of the species letter and number of labeled slides for each species. SlideScribe is a good source for quality labels. You can find them at http://www.slidescribe.com


c) Pick up the most recent copy of the book "Photographer's Market" and go through page by page and highlight the publishers that you feel may be interested in your work. Once you choose a publication, pick up the most recent copy of that publication and see what type of photos they are using and how they are using them.


d) Your next step is to send the photo editor a letter of inquiry. Introduce yourself and add any photo credits or experience. Tell them that you are interested in sending them a sample of your work for their review and hopeful use. Ask for a list of photo guidelines. Let them know that any tips, suggestions, or a list of upcoming needs would be greatly appreciated. When the editor responds to your letter of inquiry, you should get some slides together and send them out while your name is still fresh in the mind of the editor.


e) Don't send your slides in boxes. Use archival safe slide pages and sandwich the pages between layers of stiff cardboard. These pages hold 20 slide each. With these pages, it will be much more convenient for an editor to view your slides. He will place the pages on a light box and scrutinize your work using a loupe. You should do the same.


f) Send only your very best images. I shoot 1 or 2 rolls (36exp) with the hope of getting a couple shots of publication quality. The difference between a "good photographer" and a "great photographer", is that the "great photographer" shows only a very small percentage of his or her work ! There is a lot of competition as you well know. Make a good first impression, you only have one shot at this.


Does this all seem like a lot of work ? Believe me, it is !